Tales of the Grape

Tales of the Grape is Moving!

2009-12-18T14:11:00.000-06:00

Talesofthegrape.blogspot.com is now Talesofthegrape.com!

After a long search for a more usable and flexible blogging platform, I’ve finally settled on the a new format powered by Wordpress. Hopefully this will enable me to give you a better product with the latest content. For those of you that have followed this blog it will remain up and running until the the first of the year.

Here’s to a better and brighter future with lots of new and interesting topics!

Varietal Voyage No.10 - 2008 Rosenblum Cellars "Kathy's Cuvée"

2009-12-12T15:42:00.015-06:00

Up to this point we have tasted wines made from several different grapes including: Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, and Chardonnay. The fourth and final white varietal on this voyage brings us to Viognier!

This strange sounding varietal, pronounced Vee-yoh-N'YAY, is a finicky grape that is difficult to grow. Most prevalent in France's Rhone Valley, it has been grown with much success in many places around the world. The United states is one of these places but it has only been grown here for the past twenty years.

This week's Viognier is from Rosenblum Cellars. In 1978, Kent Rosenblum, his wife Kathy, and several friends founded Rosenblum Cellars. Using grapes sourced from several now famous vineyards, they quickly became known for top quality Zinfandels. Over the years Rosenblum has grown in size and popularity, producing numerous award winning wines. All of Kent's successes have earned him title: "King of Zin." Grape Radio interviewed the King of Zin recently, Click here to listen.

"Kathy's Cuvée," named after Kent's wife, is one in a series of wines called the Appellation Series. This particular wine is made from a blend of Viognier grapes from three different California appellations, each with very differnet soils and climatic conditions, rendering very different aromas and flavors.

The first thing you notice is how aromatic this wine is. As soon as the cork is removed, rich floral and tropical fruit aromas fill the room. The flavors are equally as rich and even more complex. Sue's described her first sips as "fireworks" exploding with different flavors. This is where the three appellations shine through. The cooler location (Fess Parker Vineyards, Santa Barbara) provides the structure with bright, citrus flavors and well balanced acidity, while the warmer areas (Ripken Vineyards, Lodi and Lange Twins Vineyards, Clarksburg) flesh it out with lush, ripe apricot and pear flavors. Careful aging in a variety of oak barrels and some time resting on lees offers a creamy, honey-like texture that reminds you of silk. All of these aspects blend together so well that you hardly notice its high alcohol content (14.5% ABV).

2008 Rosenblum Cellars "Kathy's Cuvée" ($18)

100% Viognier
California (Clarksburg, Lodi, Santa Barbara)
Rosenblum's Info Sheet

Varietal Voyage - See how it started...

2005 Boorman Estate Pinot Noir

2009-12-09T20:34:00.010-06:00

Boorman Vineyards is a relatively new winery located in southern California's Temecula Valley. They are a very small operation (1,500 cases total) using state of the art equipment to craft their wines in small lots. Their focus is on creating a few unique wines with a degree of quality and finesse not found in larger operations. Boorman currently offers: Cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, including a few Bordeaux-style blends. They also make a unique pinot noir.

The 2005 Pinot Noir is a huge wine! When I say "huge" I mean heavy bodied flavors with lots of alcohol (14.5% ABV). Southern California's warm climate tends to produce much riper fruit than normally found in traditional pinot noirs. Boorman ferments their pinot noir for a longer period of time to breakdown the additional sugar in the ripe grapes, adding to the high alcohol content.

Tasting Notes:

The flavors and aromas are intense to say the least. Complex aromas of raisins, dark cherries, and pepper radiate from the glass. I compared this to a bottle of Leacock's 10 year Madeira and the aromas were almost identical, very unusual for pinot noir. Tart cherry flavors combine with black pepper and a healthy dose of tannins. I suggest decanting or aerating this one early to help soften the tannins. The high alcohol content adds a tremendous amount of heat to the finish, making the wine seem out of balance. This is more like a tenacious young zinfandel than the delicate pinot noirs I have become accustomed to. Hopefully the 2007 is a little more balanced.

Tres Hermanas 2003 Syrah

2009-12-09T19:14:00.006-06:00

This is the second wine I've had from the Tres Hermanas Vineyard and Winery. The first was their wonderful sauvignon blanc that I tasted for Varietal Voyage No.1. Their 2003 syrah is equally as great!

Tres Hermanas is known for their French and Italian style red wines. In fact, the Central Coast AVA, where TH is located, has a very similar climate to France's Southern Rhone Valley where syrah is transformed into some of the world's most popular wines.

Tasting Notes:

This wine has all the hallmarks of a great syrah with its inky garnet color and a bouquet full of earthy and spicy aromas. The 2003 Syrah is a very complex wine that has a lot to offer, but it takes some time to fully understand and enjoy it. This one is full of jammy blackberries with many layers of smokey earth and herbal flavors. The long finish showcases its peppery spice and bittersweet chocolate. Pair this with a juicy grilled steak and you won't go wrong!

Varietal Voyage No.9 - 2005 Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault

2009-11-29T17:26:00.007-06:00

The last Chardonnay on our list comes from the Burgundy region of France, or more specifically, Meursault, in the Côte de Beaune. Burgundy is typically associated with Pinot Noir, but it is equally known for Chardonnay. With the exception of Gamay and a little Aligoté, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are the only two varietals allowed to grow here.

Meursault is the heart of white Burgundy (aka Chardonnay). The vineyards here grow in a great diversity of soil types. Everything from stony chalk, to gravely clay is present giving these wines great richness and complexity. The cool temperatures here keep the grapes from getting too ripe which helps the winemakers capture the natural flavors and acidity of the fruit.

In 1731 Michael Bourchard left his home in the French Alps and moved Volnay where he established himself as a cloth merchant. In 1751 Michael's son, Joseph, began his own business. Joseph, also a cloth merchant, sold Burgundian wines as well. It wasn't until 1775, when Joseph purchased the family's first vineyards in Volnay that they started to grow their own grapes and produce their own wine. After that, the rest is a very interesting history lesson. Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils now owns many properties in Burgundy, including vineyards in the Côte de Beaune, Côte de Nuits, Côte Chalonnaise, Côte Mâconnaise.

This complex wine had Sue and me scrambling to understand everything we had tasted. This surprisingly pale yellow Chardonnay provided many different layers to discover as it opened up throughout the evening. The fruit aromas and flavors are more discreet than the other Chardonnays. Peaches and honey were the most obvious flavors but there is a definite underpinning of fresh herbs and minerals. This puzzle of flavors balances nicely with the toasty notes imparted by oak fermentation and aging, and finishes off with a lingering dose tropical fruits.

2005 Domaine Bouchard Père & Fils Meursault

100% Chardonnay
Meursault, Côte de Beaune

Varietal Voyage - See how it started...

2005 Oreana Central Coast Pinot Noir

2009-11-27T13:15:00.004-06:00

Located in downtown Santa Barbara, the Oreana Winery is in a tricked out combination winery/warehouse/tasting room called “Cellar 205.” In the past several years they have crafted some very interesting and award winning wines. As part of California’s Central Coast AVA, they enjoy a cool maritime climate where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish.

A few years ago I was lucky enough to buy a couple bottles of Oreana’s 2005 Central Coast Pinot Noir at a private tasting in Milwaukee hosted by David Breen. I didn’t realize how lucky I was until I heard that less than 100 cases were produced! This Thanksgiving seemed to be the perfect occasion to finally enjoy a bottle.

When we first open bottle we were immediately struck by rich cherry and spicy cinnamon aromatics. Pouring our first glasses of this dark red cherry colored Pinot Noir released even more of the wonderful aromas. This followed with juicy black cherry and currant flavors. The ripe red fruit and medium body made for a pleasing finish with just a little heat (14.1% ABV). A perfect pairing for Thanksgiving!

Wish I had bought more!

Shingleback "Black Bubbles" Sparkling Shiraz

2009-11-26T16:45:00.005-06:00

Several months ago I learned about sparkling shiraz from a friend. The concept seemed interesting, so I filed it away in that dark place somewhere between my ears for future reference. As luck would have it, I spotted a bottle of Shingleback “Black Bubbles” Sparkling Shiraz at the Grapes & Tastes, the new wine shop that just opened in Cedarburg.

Shingleback Winery, in Australia’s McLaren Vale, produces many different wines, but Black Bubbles is their only sparkler. The winemakers at Shingleback blend together several vintages of shiraz to create a fruit-forward wine with relative complexity.

I brought this bottle to Thanksgiving dinner with my parents, where we enjoyed it as an aperitif. The first thing we noticed were the aromas of blackberries carried by the bubbles. The bubbles weren't quite black, but definitely on the deep purple side of the spectrum. Very ripe, sweet flavors of blackberries and currants balanced well with its mild acidity. The spicy character and soft tannins of the shiraz really came through in the finish. Make sure to keep it well chilled. We noticed the flavors begin to fall flat as it warms up.

Not bad for the first sparkling shiraz I've tried. This is an easy drinking wine, perfect for a summer barbecue or a nice pairing to a sweet chocolate dessert.

Shingleback "Black Bubbles" Sparkling Shiraz

100% Shiraz
McLaren Vale, Australia
Producer's Info Sheet

Varietal Voyage No.8 - 2007 Trevor Jones Virgin Chardonnay

2009-11-22T14:14:00.001-06:00

The next Chardonnay on our list comes from Australia's Barossa Valley (pronounced "Bar-ah-sa"). The Barossa Valley is located in southern Australia about 30 miles northeast of Adelaide, this is Aussies' version of the Napa Valley. This region produces almost half of all the Australian wines. Trevor Jones Winery, part of Kellermeister Wines, is in the town of Lyndoch at the southern tip of the Barossa Valley. The valley's hot, dry climate is perfect for growing intensely ripe Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Grenache, but it also produces some very good Semillon and Chardonnay.

The 2007 Virgin Chardonnay is unlike many traditional Chardonnays. As the name suggests, this "virgin" chardonnay is made completely without the influence of any oak. Many Chardonnays are fermented in oak tanks and or aged in oak barrels. For some people the use of too much oak overwhelms the natural fruit flavors of the grapes with strong overtones of toasty vanilla. In response, many producers are making wines that limit the amount of oak they use or forego its use completely.

This Virgin vintage was thoroughly enjoyable. For its young age it has a surprising golden yellow color tinted slightly green. The absence of oak is immediately evident, which allows the natural fruit character to shine through. Aromas and flavors of stone fruits (peaches and apricots) permeate the wine with some tropical fruits mixed in for good measure. Nutty, herbal notes may be a sign of some time spent on it lees. It has a rich buttery mouth feel that comes along with the judicious use of malolactic fermentation, a process that converts tart-tasting malic acid (think green apples) to lactic acid (think milk or butter), not uncommon for Chardonnay. With all of this complexity it ends with a clean finish that begs you to take another sip!

2007 Trevor Jones Virgin Chardonnay

100% Chardonnay (Unoaked)
Australia, Barossa Valley
Importer's Info Sheet

Varietal Voyage - See how it started...

Varietal Voyage No.7 – 2006 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay

2009-11-16T21:28:00.012-06:00

This week we leave behind our final chenin blanc and move on to the next varietal on the list: Chardonnay! For this particular wine we are travelling south from Mendocino to the Grgich Hills Estate near the southern tip of Napa Valley.

Grgich Hills Estate is an interesting venture that began in 1977 between master winemaker, Mike Grgich and Austin Hills of the Hills Brothers Coffee conglomerate. Today they own 366 acres spanning across five top quality vineyards. To keep quality high, they concentrate on just six different types of wines (Fumé Blanc, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Violetta). Another interesting fact is that all of the Grgich Hills vineyards are sustainable and "biodynamically" farmed. Think "organic" on steroids! Biodynamic farming is a philosophy that treats the Earth as a living organism. Only natural preparations, cosmic rhythms, and nature's own basic elements are used to create a harmonious balance between vineyard and Earth.

If you have ever heard of the "Judgment of Paris" then you probably have heard of Mike Grgich. He is the winemaker (then working for Chateau Montelena), that was responsible for creating the award winning chardonnay (1973 Chateau Montelena) that beat out all of the French wines in a 1976 blind tasting. This was arguably the watershed event that put California on the map as force to be reckoned with in the wine making world. One could go on talking about this event for hours. If you want to know more, I would suggest reading George Taber's book, Judgment of Paris.

The 2006 Napa Valley Chardonnay is created from grapes grown at the Grgich Hills Estate's Carneros and American Canyon vineyards. These two properties are nestled in the valley near the San Pablo Bay where the cool ocean breezes and fog help maintain the grapes' natural fruit character and crisp acidity. 2006 also happens to be the first vintage from these vineyards that was certified as "biodynamic."

This Chardonnay was quite different from many of the other's we have tried over the years. In the past, many were over oaked and many saw some malolactic fermentation. The resulting wines were usually very buttery, masking much of the natural fruit character of the grapes. The 2006 NV was nothing like those earlier wines. It was clear from the first taste that the winemakers chose not to use any malolactic fermentation, allowing the bright acidity and complex flavors of apples, lemon, and pineapples to shine through. The winemakers also chose to ferment and age the wine carefully in a mix of old and new oak barrels, imparting very pleasant toasty, vanilla flavors. A little pricey at $40, but worth every penny!

Knowing that we'll never be able to afford a '73 Chateau Montelena, I wonder how this one compares?

2006 Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley Chardonnay

100% Chardonnay
Napa Valley, California (Carneros & American Canyon)
Producer's Info Sheet

Varietal Voyage - See how it started...

Wine Selection Tips for Thanksgiving

2009-11-14T20:56:00.003-06:00

The Thanksgiving holiday is a special time for friends and family break bread together. The traditional Thanksgiving feast has a large selection of foods, all with their own unique flavors and textures. Selecting a wine or wines to go with this wide variation of dishes can be a daunting task. One thing is certain; there is no right or wrong answer. If you and your guests enjoy the meal (and the wine), that is all that really matters!

Sparkling Wines

Sparkling wines are a popular choice for most holiday meals. Crisp acidity, bright fruit flavors and yeasty undertones help make these wines extremely food-friendly. A good Blanc de Noir (a sparkling wine or Champagne containing Pinot Noir) pairs well with many courses, from cheeses to salads to turkey and potatoes. The bubbles, combined with the natural acidity, work to cleanse the palate for each course.

White Wines

Fruity white wines with lively acidity work well with any number of dishes. Sauvignon Blanc's herbal aromas and flavors of tropical fruit, apples and pear compliment everything from butternut squash to the turkey and stuffing. Chardonnay, on the other hand, with its richer flavors and fuller body, goes better with creamy dishes. Gewürztraminer has an inherent spiciness that begs to be paired with cranberries or spicy pumpkin or squash soups.

Red Wines

Pinot Noir is probably one of the most versatile wines for the Thanksgiving meal. Flavors of tart cherries and strawberries, along with a nice balance of acidity and tannins, supports most courses without overpowering them. If dark meat is on the menu, consider a Zinfandel or a Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre (GSM) blend from the Côtes du Rhône. Their ripe, dark fruit flavors and rich tannins work well with fat in the meats.

Dessert Wines

Selecting a dessert wine can be a little problematic. Depending on the level of sweetness in the dessert, some wines may or may not work. If the dessert is not too sweet, consider a sweet wine like Muscat or an effervescent Moscato d'Asti. If your dessert is very sweet, look for a Port (ruby or tawny) or a late-harvest Riesling. These wines are very sweet and rich and will stand up to the sugar in the dessert. Of course all of these wines could be considered "dessert" just by themselves.

These are just a few hints and suggestions to help select a wine (or wines) that will compliment your Thanksgiving meal. The best part is that there is no right or wrong answer when it comes time to choosing a wine. If you like the wine, and it enhances your dining experience, that's all that matters! The important thing to remember is that Thanksgiving is about friends and family. They are the ones that truly make Thanksgiving great!

Beaujolais Nouveau...Coming Soon!

2009-11-10T20:43:00.010-06:00

Just after midnight, on November 19th, over one million cases of Beaulolais Nouveau will begin their journey from the vineyards of Beaujolais to Paris. From here they will be put on every conceivable mode of transportation for immediate shipment around the globe!

Beaujolais Nouveau, not to be confused with its more elegant cousin Cru Beaujolais, is a very young, fruity red wine made from the Gamay grape and is closer to cherry kool-aid than wine! All kidding aside, BN is actually a very pleasant, easy to drink wine that pairs well with many holiday meals.

Since 1985, French law states that this wine can only be produced in Burgundy's Beaujolais region and cannot be released before the third Thursday of November! What started as a local celebration has gradually become an international event as producers scramble to see who can get their product to market first!

Here's a link to the english version of Beaujolais.net

These are just a few well known producers of Beaujolais Nouveau:
Georges Duboeuf (French language)
Domaine Dupeuble
Joseph Drouhin
Louis Jadot
Domaine Yvon Metras
Jean-Paul Thevenet

Varietal Voyage No.6 - Husch 2008 Mendocino Chenin Blanc

2009-11-09T20:00:00.005-06:00

Our final Chenin Blanc on the voyage brings us back to California. This time we're visiting Mendicino County and California's most northern appellations.

The Husch Vineyards were established in 1971. Located a few hours north of San Francisco (map), this is the oldest winery in the Anderson Valley AVA. In the beginning the Husch family produced only a few grape varietals, mainly: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewürztraminer. In 1979, Hugo Oswald purchased the vineyards and winery from the Husch's and is now operated by the the third generation of the Oswald family. Today they produce 21 different wines, maintaining the same standards of excellence as they have for the last thirty years.

Ironically our chenin blanc doesn't come from Anderson Valley. The Oswald family owns another vineyard east of Anderson Valley, near Ukiah. This property has been with the Oswald family since the 1960's, long before the purchase of the Husch winery. Called "La Ribera" (the riverbank), this vineyard lies along the banks of Russian River and has long been the source for their Chenin Blanc, as well as, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah and Zinfandel.

This was a thoroughly enjoyable wine which I could easily see drinking on a hot summer's day. This young wine (released April 2009) has a very pale yellow hue. It's light color packs sumptuous aromas of apriocts, tropical fruits and honeydew melon. The delicious flavors hold true to the aromas finishing with a slightly sweet, honey-like texture that reminds me a little of fruit cocktail.

Next up...Chardonnay! Click here to see the future line up.

Husch 2008 Mendocino Chenin Blanc

100% Chenin Blanc
La Ribera Vineyard, Ukiah, CA
Winemaker's Info

Varietal Voyage - See how it started...

2006 St. Francis "Old Vines" Zinfandel

2009-11-08T16:55:00.017-06:00

If you’re a fan of big, bold California wines, then you’ll enjoy the 2006 St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel. I’ve had this zinfandel on several occasions but this is the first time I’ve thought to write about it.

Founded in 1971, the St. Francis Winery is located near the southern tip of the Sonoma Valley at the foot of the Mayacamas Mountains. (map) Under the direction of master winemaker, Tom Mackey, they are known for their Zinfandel, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. They also produce a series of premium red and white wines under the “Wild Oak” label.

For the 2006 OVZ, St. Francis sources their grapes from over fourteen different vineyards in the Sonoma Valley. Other varietals, such as Alicante Buschet, Petite Sirah, Grenache and Carignan grow alongside Zinfandel vines creating what’s known as a "field blend" which add color and texture the final wine. The name “Old Vines” comes from the fact that the Zinfandel vines used to produce this powerhouse are anywhere from 60 to 110 years old! As vines get older they produce fewer and fewer grapes, but what they lack in production is made up for with fruit that has richer and more concentrated flavors. St. Francis also goes to great lengths to ensure the grapes are “dry farmed” using only natural rainfall for irrigation. The warm climate of the Sonoma Valley combined with the lack of irrigation forces the vines to struggle, concentrating the flavors within the grapes even further. The winemakers then take advantage of the region’s long growing season and hand pick only the richest, ripest fruit. The juice is fermented in stainless steel and aged in American Oak for fifteen months to create an intense, high alcohol wine (15.5% ABV) with well balanced flavors and chewy tannins.

This wine has all of the hallmarks of a powerful Zinfandel. Hidden inside its dark reddish-purple color are strong aromas of black cherries and spicy oak revealing evidence its time spent in oak barrels. As you swirl the wine in the glass you notice an almost port-like viscosity indicating its high alcohol content. Jammy flavors of black cherries, blackberries, and spicy pepper dance around in your mouth balancing out the heat of alcohol. Ample tannins with hints of chocolate and vanilla combine with the fruit to close out the finish. This wine should age nicely for at least the next 5-10 years.

In August 2009, Food and Wine Magazine described the 2006 OVZ as “…the epitome of supercharged California Zinfandel…”

2006 St. Francis "Old Vines" Zinfandel

Zinfandel (field blend)

Sonoma County, CA)

St. Francis Fact Sheet

Varietal Voyage No.5 - 2006 Domaine des Roche Neuves "L'Insolite"

2009-11-02T22:45:00.004-06:00

As you can probably tell by the name, this next chenin blanc is from France. Like the Sauvignon Blanc sampled for VV3, this wine is also from the Loire Valley, specifically the Saumur AOC. This too was recommended by Ben Christiansen at the Waterford Wine Company.

Situated on the south or "left" bank of the Loire River, Saumer lies between Angers and Tours. About 3 miles southwest is the village of Varrains. This is where you'll find the vineyards of Domaine des Roche Neuves. This area of the Loire is laced with sandstone, flint and aluvial silts. The same tuffeau limestone used to build the historic castles and châteaux also plays a critical role in the quality and style of the wines in this region.

L'Insolite, which translates to "out of the ordinary," is a dry Chenin Blanc. In a region that excels at making off-dry and sweet chenin blancs this is truly unusual. In 1996 the proprietor of Domain des Roche Neuves, Thierry Germain, purchased a small plot of very old vines (now over 80 years old) and began produding a dry chenin blanc. Here they follow strict biodynamic farming methods to preserve as much of the natural fruit character (and the environment) as possible and maximize the expression of terroir. When the grapes are harvested the juice is fermented in oak tanks and then allowed to rest on its lees in several different types of oak barrels. The winemakers use this combination of terrior, yeasts and oak to give us a complex and unique wine.

I will have to admit that this was one of the more difficult wines to get our heads wrapped around. There were a lot of things going on in this wine that we didn't expect! L'Insolite had a much richer yellow color than the South African Chenin Blanc (See VV4). Rich herbal aromas combined with those of citrus, pears, and apricots. Nuts and minerals intertwined with the light flavors of herbs and citrus. The oak fermentation and aging was evidenced by the nutty, vanilla undercurrents that lingered through the finish.

This wine was fantastic! Thanks Ben!

2006 Domaine des Roche Neuves "L'Insolite"

100% Chenin Blanc
Varrains, France (Saumur AOC, Loire Valley)
Importer's Information Sheet

Varietal Voyage - See how it started...

2003 Monte Cinco Malbec

2009-11-01T14:46:00.001-06:00

For this Halloween, Sue and I decided to hibernate and watch scary movies while the neighbors braved the cold winds and the marauding masses of masked munchkins! To eswage our guilt we opened the last bottle of Malbec in our cellar!

I bought this bottle from David Breen at a tasting sometime last year. At the time, I didn't know too much about the wine or the producer. What I did know, was that it was very good!

After doing a little research, I found that Michael Schachner at Wine Enthusiast Magazine reviewed this wine in November 2004 and gave it a 91 point rating. I also discovered that one of the importers, Cienega Imports, is also run by the owners of DeRose Vineyards, the maker of one of my favorite Zinfandels!

The Monte Cinco Vineyard was founded by the Italian winemaker Don Pedro Bertona in the later 1890's. The Bertona family settled in Luján de Cuyo, near Mendoza, Argentina and has been making fine wines there ever since.

Monte Cinco's vineyards are located high in the foothills of the Andes Mountains. The stony soils and continental climate (hot days and cool nights) work together to help produce exceptional fruit with just the right balance of ripeness and acidity. The winemakers ferment the juice in stainless steel to help retain the fruit character of the grapes. They then age the wine in French and American oak to add a level of complexity.

Sue and I found this to be a very good Malbec. The dark reddish-purple color followed with aromas of violets and blueberries. The slightly sweet flavors mirrored the aromas and carried through with a spicy, cocoa finish. I don't normally subscribe to the "official" rating schemes for wines, but I have to agree with the Wine Enthusiast on this one!

2003 Monte Cinco Malbec

100% Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
Get it from DeRose Vineyards (while it lasts! Only 500 cases produced)

Halloween Wines - Spirits for a Spirited Occasion

2009-10-25T17:32:00.000-05:00

If you are looking for a little something extra to spice up your next Halloween party why not try wines that embrace the spooky nature of the season. The following are just a few of the wineries I have found that have a macabre twist to their marketing plans!

Vampire Vineyards - Paso Robles, CA
- Chateau du Vampire - $20
- Dracula Zinfandel -$20
- Dracula Syrah - $18
- Vampire Pinor Noir - $10
- Vampire Merlot - $10
- Vampire Cabernet - $10
- Vampire Chardonnay - $10
- Vampire Pinot Grigio - $10
- Vampire White Zinfandel - $10

Get them online at Wicked Wines

Armida Winery - Healdsburg, CA
- "Poizin" Zinfandel - $20
- "Antidote" Pinot Gris - $12
- "The Reserve" Zinfandel - $60

Get them online at Armida Winery

Twisted Oak Winery - Vallecito, CA
- Calaveras County River of Skulls - Mourvedre/Syrah Blend - $35

Get it online at Twisted Oak Winery

Bonded Winery No. 9 - Oakville, CA
- Ghost Block Yountville Cabernet Sauvignon - $100
- Ghost Block Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - $60
- Ghost Block 2008 MorgaenLee Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc -$28

Get them online at Bonded Winery No. 9

Varietal Voyage No.4 - 2008 Ken Forrester "Petit" Chenin Blanc

2009-10-25T14:00:00.002-05:00

After three interesting, and very different sauvignon blancs, it is time for us to explore the next grape on our list. VV4 brings us to one of the world's most versatile grapes, Chenin Blanc. Chenin Blanc is used to produce everything from bone dry, high acid wines to deliciously sweet dessert wines. It can be found in sparkling "champagne style" wines, such as Crémant de Loire, and even fortified wines.

Widely thought to have originated in France, Chenin Blanc can can be found growing in vineyards around the globe. However, only a few wine regions in the world see chenin blanc as primary varietal, these are France, South Africa, and the United States. For this week's journey we explore South Africa's Stellenbosch region.

The town of Stellenbosch, 30 miles east of Cape Town, was founded in 1679. It is the center of viticulture in South Africa, and rightly so. The hot summers, and cold, damp winters, combined with the varied soils (light and sandy to decomposing granite) make this region well suited to growing a wide variety of wine grapes, including chenin blanc.

The 2008 "Petit" Chenin Blanc from the Ken Forrester Vineyards is a good example of what South Africa has to offer. The light straw color reveals delicate aromas of citrus and pear with a dash of minerals. Off-dry (slightly sweet) flavors of lime, green pears, and green grapes (Thompson?) are very refreshing and bright. The light acidity and lingers in your mouth for a juicy finish. Not as rich or complex as a 2007 or 2008 Forrester Meinert Chenin Blanc (FMC), but a great everyday wine nonetheless. Save this one for your next spring picnic!

2008 Ken Forrester "Petit" Chenin Blanc

100% Chenin Blanc
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Importer's Information Sheet

Varietal Voyage - See how it started...

As a side note, I purchased this wine at Kafevino, Milwaukee's new wine bar, café, and retail wine shop that just celebrated their grand opening on 10/22/09. They have a good selection of affordable wines and a helpful staff. If you are in the Historic Third Ward, it is definitely worth a visit.

Varietal Voyage No.3 - 2007 Domaine Claude Riffault "Les Boucauds"

2009-10-17T12:19:00.002-05:00

Our third wine on the Varietal Voyage brings us to France, specifically Sancerre at the western end of the Loire Valley. This wine was recommended by our favorite wine merchant, Ben Christiansen, the owner of the Waterford Wine Company in Milwaukee.

From the Atlantic coast to the mountains of central France, the Loire Valley runs east to west for some six hundred miles. The Loire is France's third largest appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) and the top producer of white wine. This is the definitive home of Sauvignon Blanc.

Sancerre is one of the most well-known wine regions in the Loire. The village of Sancerre is surrounded by several wine producing communes such as Sury-en-Vaux, the source of this week's wine. Domaine Claude Riffault grows their sauvignon blanc on the limestone hillsides of Sury-en-Vaux, northwest of Sancerre proper. The cool continental climate combined with the chalky, flinty soils make this area ideal for fresh, fruity Sauvignon Blancs. The grapes are hand picked and fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness and fruitful character.

Of the three Sauvignon Blancs we tasted, Sue and I agree that this was our favorite. The light straw color was a little darker than the previous two wines we sampled. The grassy, herbal aromas accompanied flavors of fresh citrus and nectarines. A pleasant mineral quality tied everything together. Well balanced acidity, and herbal notes carried on through to a clean finish. This wine should pair wonderfully with seafood. We tried it with steamed mussels and found the mineral qualities of the wine and the shellfish to be a good match.

This wine was a great finish to this leg of the journey. We now head off into the world of chenin blancs to explore what this varietal has to offer.

2007 Domaine Claude Riffault "Les Boucauds"

100% Sauvignon Blanc
Loire Valley, Sancerre
Importers Fact Sheet

Varietal Voyage - See how it started...

Varietal Voyage No.2 - 2008 Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc

2009-10-12T19:13:00.002-05:00

From the California we make our way across the Pacific Ocean. Six thousand six hundred miles southwest of the Central Coast AVA lies New Zealand's Marlborough region. Marlborough is on the south island and is home to some of the world's best Sauvignon Blancs.

The vineyards of the Wairau River Winery, as the name suggests, lie on and around the Wairau River. The maritime climate makes for long, temperate growing seasons and the shallow, stony soils intensify the fruit flavors and mineral characteristics.

The style of this Sauvignon Blanc is quite different from the 2005 Tres Hermanas sampled last week (see Varietal Voyage No.1). This wine is pale yellow, almost colorless. What it lacks in color is made up for in the wonderful floral aromas and tropical fruit flavors. Slightly sweeter than the Tres Hermanas, its crisp acidity felt more balanced on the palette. The finish is short and clean leaving you with notes of pineapple. If this is any indicator, I can see why New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs are so revered.

The next stop on our trip takes us to France. Stay tuned...

Wairau River Sauvignon Blanc 2008

100% Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand
Winery Fact Sheet

Varietal Voyage - See how it started...

Acústic Cellars 2006

2009-10-11T16:01:00.001-05:00

The Montsant region is located in in the northeast corner of Spain, not far from the coast of the Balearic Sea. The Mediterranean climate combined with its soil, a mixture of granite, slate, sand and calcium rich fossils make the region well suited for top quality vineyards.

Acústic is a rustic blend of 45% Garnacha (aka Grenache) and 55% Samsó (aka Carignan) similar to it's Rhone style cousins. The region's warm, dry weather helps to ripen the grapes and intensify their flavors.

I have to admit that I really enjoy this style of wine. It's dark ruby/purple color, reveals rich bouquet of black cherries and spice. The ripe fruit come through in sweet flavors of black fruit and currants with soft tannins. Acústic makes a great everyday drinking wine that goes well with almost any meal. Need to get more!

Acoustic Cellars 2006

45% Garnacha and 55% Samsó
Montsant, Spain
Steve Miles, importer

Ovene "The Puzzle" Pinot Noir 2005

2009-10-08T15:53:00.000-05:00

Not far from the Tres Hermanas vineyards (see Varietal Voyage No.1) lies the Ovene Winery. Ovene is a small family owned winery that makes several top notch wines made from: Syrah, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and an interesting Pinot Noir called "The Puzzle."

This elegant Pinot Noir is a blend of grapes from the Laetitia and Latchford vineyards. The Laetitia vineyard is close to the ocean and its relatively cool climate and rocky soils yields grapes with intense fruit aromas and flavors. Latchford, on the other hand, provides grapes with ripe fruit and complex earthy flavors.

The bottle that I sampled was purchased at a wine tasting almost a year ago. The light garnet color was different that I remembered, but the complex cherry aromas were spot on. Rich cherry flavors evolved in to spicy cranberry notes on the finish. More pieces of the puzzle began to fall in to place over the next few hours. Complex earthy aromas and flavors slowly unveiled themselves throughout the night. Hopefully I can find more bottle to add to my cellar!

Ovene "The Puzzle" Pinot Noir 2005

100% Pinot Noir
Central Coast, California
Product Sheet

Varietal Voyage No.1 - Tres Hermanas Sauvignon Blanc 2005

2009-10-04T21:09:00.002-05:00

The first wine on our journey takes us to the Central Coast of California and the Tres Hermanas Vineyard and Winery. This winery, located between Los Olivos and Santa Maria focuses mainly on French and Italian style wines, but makes a very nice California syrah.

The 2005 Sauvignon Blanc proved to be a great pairing to the shrimp and wild rice we had for dinner. The pale yellow color, almost clear, was deceiving. Based on the color, I expected a light bodied wine, but the floral and citrus aromas with hints of fresh herbs were striking. The flavors were equally as bold. Crisp, grapefruity acidity with lots of alcohol (14+%) reminded me of a dry German Riesling. The flavors and aromas carried through with an extremely long finish revealing lemons and pears.

A great start to the voyage. Next stop: New Zealand...

2005 Tres Hermana Sauvignon Blanc

100% Sauvignon Blanc
Central Coast, California

Varietal Voyage - See how it started...

Varietal Voyage - The Beginning

2009-10-03T19:00:00.006-05:00

For sometime now, I have wanted to expand my knowledge of the vast viticultural world of wine. I have tasted a fair share of wines, but always seem to gravitate to the same familiar varieties. Not that there is anything wrong with liking a few good wines, but there is so much more to experience!

I recently read in Karen MacNeil's "Wine Bible" about a plan for expanding your knowledge of wine. She spoke of a systematic plan, sampling different wines over a six month time frame. This was exactly what I was looking for. With a little research and some consultation with Sue, the plan was hatched!

Over the next six months, Sue and I will partake in a voyage of varietal discovery. The first three months focuses purely on white wines. The following three months are devoted to reds. Throughout each trimester we will explore four varietals and three different regions for each.

Month 1-3: The Whites

Sauvignon Blanc (US, New Zealand, France) - VV1, VV2, VV3
Chenin Blanc (US, France, South Africa) - VV4, VV5, VV6
Chardonnay (US, France, Australia) - VV7, VV8, VV9
Viognier (US, France, Australia) - VV10

Month 4-6: The Reds

Cabernet Sauvignon (US, France, South America)
Merlot (US, France, South America)
Syrah/Shiraz (US, France, Australia)
Petite Sirah (US, France, Australia)

So that's the grand plan - twenty-four wines over the next six months. Stay tuned. This blog will be the travelogue of our adventure!

Banfi - Rosa Regale 2007

2009-09-20T22:21:00.000-05:00

I learned of this interesting sparkler on a Wine for Newbies podcast. It was suggested that Brachetto d'Acqui pairs well with chocolate, not an easy feat with wine. A rich ruby or tawny port are the usual suspects when it comes to pairing wine with chocolate.

Sue's brother, Chris is in from New York and they have prepared their family favorite, Dobos Torte, a very rich and decadent dessert. Just looking at it raises my cholesterol 10 points!

We chilled the wine during dinner. Before dessert we popped the cork and were greeted with fragrances of roses and raspberries. The dark rosé color reminded me a little of cranberry juice, Flavors of fresh, red fruit and light acidity greeted the palette and followed up with a short, clean finish. Very refreshing! Personally I found the Brachetto d'Acqui to be a little too sweet for this dessert. I think I would prefer it as a standalone aperitif or as a partner to a darker, more bitter chocolate.

Banfi - Rosa Regale 2007

100% Brachetto d'Acqui
Piedmont region, Italy
Rosa Regale Website

Chateau Ste Michelle - Eroica Riesling 2007

2009-09-20T22:19:00.000-05:00

I had heard about this flavorful Riesling on a Wine for Newbies podcast and recently saw it again in the July 2009 issue of Food & Wine. The partnership between CSM and the Mosel region's Dr. Ernst Loosen sounded interesting and the description of the wine's fruity aromas and zesty acidity were equally intriguing.

My wife, Sue, makes a fantastic chicken dish that calls for both Riesling and Cognac! Could life be any rougher? ;) Anyway, to make a long short, I saw this as the perfect opportunity to sample this popular Riesling. After Sue used what she needed for the chicken, I got the rest (She's not a big Riesling fan). I'll save the Cognac for later!

The pale straw color was what I expected of a young Riesling. The familiar aromas of green apple and grapefruit and possibly a little orange peel were quite evident from the first taste. Over the course of a few hours the flavors evolved into sweeter "appley" notes with hints of honey. The light acidity offered a creamy mouthfeel that I was not expecting. Overall, this was a very pleasant wine that should pair well with spicy seafood or Asian-inspired dishes

2007 Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling 2007

100% Riesling
A blend from several Washington State vineyards
CSM Fact Sheet

Root:1 Carménère 2007

2009-09-19T22:03:00.000-05:00

I read about this grape variety just recently and the history was fascinating. Considered to be "lost Bordeaux" grape, it was thought to be extinct after the phylloxera plague that decimated European vineyards in the 1860's. Fortunately cuttings of the vine made their way to Chile in the 19th century and have thrived there ever since. Up until the 20th century it was thought to be Merlot. Just recently was it's true identity rediscovered.

This Carménère blend has a strong, clean red color (the root of the French word Carménère is "carmin" or "crimson") with juicy aromas and flavors of black fruit (blackberries, plum?) and spice. Good acidity with very light tannins. Short, clean finish that reminded me a little of green, bell peppers.

Root:1 Carménère 2007

75% Carménère 15% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Syrah
Colchagua Valley, Chile
Root:1 Tasting Notes

Maipe Malbec 2007

2009-09-13T21:51:00.001-05:00

This little Argentine beauty was a pleasant surprise. Its deep purple color revealed fruity aromas with rich juicy dark fruits and a hint of cocoa. For a minute it felt like I was smelling a German Black Forest Cherry Torte! The rich cherry and plum flavors showed an almost creamy texture (perhaps some malolactic fermentation) with well rounded tannins. Paired well with the leftover steak from Saturday! Great wine at a very affordable price. Thank you Mendoza!

Maipe Malbec 2007

100% Malbec manually harvested from 35 y/o vines

From Agrelo and Luján de Cuyo, in the foothills of the Andes Mountains

Vineyard information

Rex Hill Pinot Noir 2006

2009-09-13T12:07:00.001-05:00

This week brings us back to the US and Oregon's Willamette Valley. This bottle was a little cold to start so we decanted it about an hour before the first taste. I love how a decanter really enhances the aromas of a good red wine. The ruby/garnet color revealed an aromatic bouquet of dark cherries and spices. The aromas carried through in the flavors as well. A jammy combination of cherries and blackberries dominated the palette. This juicy Pinot Noir held up nicely with a long, spicy finish showcasing its mellow tannins.

On this night we paired the wine with a fantastic grilled steak with a rub of salt and crushed black pepper. I thought the Pinot Noir might be a little delicate for the bold steak flavors, but it held up wonderfully. The spicy flavors and tannic finish really complimented the black pepper in the steak.

We conclude the night next to the fire pit under clear, cool skies. The wine continued to evolve throughout the evening showing more herbal notes, but still retaining it jammy qualities. Only 1 bottle left in the cellar, hope I can find some more!

Rex Hill Pinot Noir 2006

100% Pinot Noir
From Oregon's Willamette Valley
Rex Hill Tasting Notes

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2005

2009-09-06T08:17:00.001-05:00

I first had this wonderful Italian nectar at Sala da Pranzo on Milwaukee's East Side. This weekend I had the opportunity to indulge in another bottle of this fine wine. I opened the bottle early in the afternoon and poured off a glass to sample and give it some room to breathe. The deep garnet colors revealed aromas that were very woody with undertones of blackberry and wet vegetation. Flavors were "tight" and fruity with lots of tannins...Not what I had expected. After letting the bottle rest for a few hours I returned to an entirely different experience. The aromas had opened up revealing a pleasant peppery, blackberry bouquet. Now the dark berry flavors evolved into the spicy, raisinated texture that I remembered. The tannins had softened quite a bit now unveiling a soft sweetness on the finish. I look forward to trying another bottle after it has had a few more years to mature.

Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2005

70% Corvina Veronese, 20% Rondinella, 5% Sangiovese
From Palazzo della Torre vineyard, Fumane di Valpolicella
Allegrini tasting notes